Place the new [hub bearings] part onto the spindle, and screw down the new hub nut. Using a torque wrench, torque the hub nut at 125 ft-lbs to 150 ft-lbs. It is pretty important to get this nut torqued down - if it is too loose pre-mature bearing failure can occur. Plus, this nut is the main mechanism for holding the wheel on the car. Since I reused my hub nut, the part that was indented lined back up with the keyway on the spindle. For me, this was a crosscheck that I was doing things right.

First, loosen the lug nuts of the front wheel while it is still on the ground so you don't have to fight the spinning wheel while it is jacked up. Next, jack up the side of the car you will be replacing the hub on. Even though you won't be under the vehicle, put the car on a jackstand for stability since you could be shaking the car a bit working with the tight bolts in later steps.

Remove the lug nuts and wheel, and then remove the upper and lower slider bolts for the caliper. The lower bolt is 14mm and the upper bolt is 17mm. The red arrows point to where the caliper bolts were bearings (the caliper and caliper bolts have already been removed in this photo).

Using a piece of wire, hang the caliper out of the way with it - do not let the caliper hang by the brake line. The lower control arm makes a nice place to set the caliper, but chances are you'll knock it off, so make sure you wire it to the coil or other suspension component so no stress is placed on the brake hose.

Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle assembly. Both of these are 14mm bolts, and the yellow arrows point to them. Once the caliper bracket is off, you will be able to remove the disc rotor (up until now it has been loosely attached to the hub assembly since the lug nuts hold it tight).

Remove the spring clips that hold the pads away from the caliper, and remove the brake pads.Next, use a slotted screwdriver and hammer to pry the cover that is over the hub nut. This can be in there tight, so it may take a bit of persuasion to get out.Using a metal punch or chisel, knock out the indentation on the hub nut that is sticking into the spindle keyway.

Slip a pipe over the handle of your socket to get the leverage needed to easily remove the hub nut (or use some equivalent method). The hub nut needs a 29mm socket to remove it. I used a four-foot pipe and my five year old could have removed the nut with that much leverage.Remove the old skf bearing assembly from the spindle. Wipe off all old grease and any debris from the spindle, and apply some new bearing grease to its surface.

Using your punch or chisel, place a dent in the hub nut rim so it protrudes into the spindle keyway. This will prevent the nut from loosening on the spindle. Also, replace the hub nut cover removed earlier

Reassembly is basically the reverse of what we've done so far. So, place the disc rotor back on the hub and bolt the caliper bracket back onto the suspension. The caliper bracket bolts are torqued at 36 ft-lbs to 51 ft-lbs. Grease the 'ears' on the brake pads with high-temperature grease meant for brake parts, and place those back in the guides in the caliper bracket. Also, don't forget to put the pad springs back on the pads to hold koyo bearings away from the rotor.

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